BIRDWATCHING IN BULGARIA
RAPTORS OF THE RHODOPE (RODOPI) MOUNTAINS
Holiday Itinerary
Day 1: Leaving Sofia, we head south-west, passing through the Sredna Gora Mountains before emerging onto the Thracian Plain. Finally, as we approach Plovdiv, we turn south towards the Rhodope (Rodopi) Mountains and begin a winding and sometimes rough drive onto the Dobrostan massif, where we will spend the next two nights in a tiny remote mountain hamlet.
Day 2: We will spend today exploring some of the varied habitats within the “Dobrostan” Important Bird Area, a complex labyrinth of ridges and gorges. Much of the region is occupied by broadleaved, coniferous and mixed forests, but there are also many open areas of meadows and pastures. However, perhaps the most striking features of the region are its cliffs and rock outcrops, including Belintash which is the site of a fascinating ancient sanctuary to the god Sabazius and which is thought to have been carved out of the rocks some 7000 years ago. The “Dobrostan” IBA itself supports 149 species of bird, and is one of the most important sites in the country for species such as: Black Stork (Ciconia nigra), Egyptian Vulture (Neophron percnopterus), Golden Eagle (Aquila chrysaetos), Imperial Eagle (Aquila heliaca), Honey Buzzard (Pernis apivorus), Long-legged Buzzard (Buteo rufinus), Booted Eagle (Hieraaetus pennatus), Short-toed Eagle (Circaetus gallicus), Peregrine Falcon (Falco peregrinus), Lesser Kestrel (Falco naumanni), Common Kestrel (Falco tinnunculus), Hazel Grouse (Bonasa bonasia), Capercallie (Tetrao urogallus), Scops Owl (Otus scops), Eagle Owl (Bubo bubo), European Nightjar (Caprimulgus europaeus), White-backed Woodpecker (Dendrocopos leucotos), Black Woodpecker (Dryocopus martius), Syrian Woodpecker (Dendrocopos syriacus), Middle Spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos medius), Grey-headed Woodpecker (Picus canus), Woodlark (Lullula arborea), Red-backed Shrike (Lanius collurio) and Cirl Bunting (Emberiza cirlus). Other interesting species include: Black-headed Bunting (Emberiza melanocephala), Rock Nuthatch (Sitta neumayer), Rock Partridge (Alectoris graeca), Eastern Black-eared Wheatear (Oenanthe hispanica) and Subalpine Warbler (Sylvia cantillans).
Day 3: We begin the day with a brief stop at the northern foot of the Rhodope (Rodopi) Mountains, checking for birds on and around some scrubby agricultural land and a micro-reservoir. Here is a colony of European Souslik (Spermophilus citellus), a small ground-squirrel which is the favoured prey for Imperial Eagle (Aquila heliaca), which can therefore sometimes be seen hunting in the region. The abandoned holes of these animals are also used as nesting sites by Isabelline Wheater (Oenanthe isabellina). Other typical birds that can be seen in the region include: Little Ringed Plover (Charadrius dubius), Hoopoe (Upupa epops), Roller (Coracias garrulus), Golden Oriole (Oriolus oriolus), Tawny Pipit (Anthus campestris), Barred Warbler (Sylvia nisoria) and Corn Bunting (Miliaria calandra). Resuming, we then make our way south-east, watching the landscape become ever wilder as we climb onto the Chukata massif and so enter the Eastern Rhodope (Rodopi) Mountains. If the roads are passable we will try and reach the town of Kurdzhali by using a rough and winding minor road that drops down into the dramatic Borovitsa valley. The river here is flanked by rugged rock outcrops which are not only studded with numerous caves, but also with a large number of ancient megalithic rock tombs and niches, some of which today provide suitable nesting places for a variety of birds of prey. Finally, having reached Kurdzhali, we then press on south along the valley of Vurbitsa to the town of Momchilgrad where we will spend the night.
Day 4: We start the day by visiting a strange
rock tomb near the village of Tatul, which according to tradition was
also a shrine to Orpheus, and which is currently the centre of much
archaeological research and debate. From here we make our way east to
explore the “Krumovitsa” Important Bird Area, in particular
focusing on the valley of the river Krumovitsa. In this region, the
valley is wide and the river often very shallow exposing its sandy-stony
bed. In some places the riverbanks are steep and rocky, but in other
places they are lined with typical riverine trees and shrubs. The region
is also studded with some small patches of cultivations. The “Krumovitsa”
IBA supports 136 species of bird, and is one of the most important sites
in the country for Black Stork (Ciconia nigra), Egyptian Vulture
(Neophron percnopterus) and Booted Eagle (Hieraaetus pennatus).
Other interesting birds we will be looking out for here include: Short-toed
Eagle (Circaetus gallicus), Hobby (Falco subbuteo),
Lesser Kestrel (Falco naumanni), Rock Nuthatch (Sitta neumayer),
Eastern Black-eared Wheatear (Oenanthe hispanica), Olivaceous
Warbler (Hippolais pallida), Olive-tree Warbler (Hippolais
olivetorum), Subalpine Warbler (Sylvia cantillans), Sardinian
Warbler (Sylvia melanocephala), Eastern Orphean Warbler (Sylvia
hortensis), Barred Warbler (Sylvia nisoria), Sombre Tit
(Parus lugubris), Spanish Sparrow (Passer hispaniolensis),
Black-headed Bunting (Emberiza melanocephala), Lesser Grey
Shrike (Lanius minor), Woodchat Shrike (Lanius senator)
and if we are lucky Masked Shrike (Lanius nubicus), Great Spotted
Cuckoo (Clamator glandarius) and Stone Curlew (Burchinus
oedicnemus). This is also a prime feeding and resting area for
Black Vulture (Aegypius monachus), and we will keep our eyes
open for them as we make our way to the small town of Ivailovgrad where
we will be based for the next two nights.
Day 5: Today the focus of our explorations
will be the remote and isolated border-region south-west of Ivailovgrad,
in particular the “Byala Reka” Important Bird Area. This
region is located around the beautiful valley of the Byala Reka, a sparkling
river which meanders its way over a stony-sandy riverbed flanked by
rock outcrops and riverine shrubs. Because of the region’s remoteness
and sparse population, not only is the river itself unpolluted, but
the surrounding forests are fairly well-preserved. These are dominated
by oakwoods as well as typical Mediterranean-type shrub formations.
In the vicinity of settlements, one can find some small-scale cultivations.
The “Byala Reka” IBA supports 167 species of bird species
and is of global importance as a permanent roosting and feeding site
for Black Vulture (Aegypius monachus). It is also one of the
most important sites in the country for Black Stork (Ciconia nigra),
Honey Buzzard (Pernis apivorus), Booted Eagle (Hieraaetus
pennatus), Short-toed Eagle (Circaetus gallicus), Levant
Sparrowhawk (Accipiter brevipes), European Nightjar (Caprimulgus
europaeus), Olive-tree Warbler (Hippolais olivetorum),
Subalpine Warbler (Sylvia cantillans), Sardinian Warbler (Sylvia
melanocephala), Masked Shrike (Lanius nubicus), Eastern
Black-eared Wheatear (Oenanthe hispanica), Woodlark (Lullula
arborea) and Black-headed Bunting (Emberiza melanocephala).
Day 6: Setting off from Ivailovgrad, we make
our way north-west through the “Ivailovgrad Reservoir” Important
Bird Area. This site covers almost the entire water body of the Ivailovgrad
reservoir and the surrounding mountain slopes. Part of the region is
covered by oakwoods, whilst the remainder has scrub and rough pastures,
interspersed with patches of cultivation. There are also some cliffs
and rock outcrops. The “Ivailovgrad Reservoir” IBA supports
163 bird species, and is one of the most important places in the country
for White-tailed Eagle (Haliaeetus albicilla), Osprey (Pandion
haliaetus) and Booted Eagle (Hieraaetus pennatus). It
also holds significant breeding populations of Black Stork (Ciconia
nigra) and Honey Buzzard (Pernis apivorus). Other important
breeding birds include Masked Shrike (Lanius nubicus) and Olive-tree
Warbler (Hippolais olivetorum). Having skirted the “Ivailovgrad”
reservoir, we then reach the small former mining town of Madzharovo
where we will be based for the next two nights. Since the mines closed
down, the town has become a magnet for naturalists from around the world,
and is the location of NICCER (Nature Information and Conservation Centre
for the Eastern Rhodope), the main hub of conservation efforts in the
Eastern Rhodope (Rodopi) Mountains. The town is ringed to the north and east by the “Madzharovo”
Important Bird Area, and we will spend the afternoon birdwatching in
this region. The key habitats around Madzharovo are the rugged rock outcrops, screes
and cliffs, some of which rise up to 150m high above the valley of the
river Arda. However, there are also mixed oakwoods and Mediterranean
scrubs, as well as some agricultural areas, and of course the river
itself, which has a sandy-stony bed and riverine vegetation along its
banks. The “Madzharovo” IBA supports 174 species of bird,
and is of global significance for Eastern Black-eared Wheatear (Oenanthe
hispanica), Olive-tree Warbler (Hippolais olivetorum),
Subalpine Warbler (Sylvia cantillans), Sardinian Warbler (Sylvia
melanocephala), Rock Nuthatch (Sitta neumayer) and Black-headed
Bunting (Emberiza melanocephala). However, its real claim to
fame is one of the two breeding colonies of Griffon Vultures (Gyps
fulvus) in Bulgaria. It is also one of the most important breeding
areas in the country for Black Stork (Ciconia nigra), Egyptian
Vulture (Neophron percnopterus), Black Kite (Milvus migrans),
Long-legged Buzzard (Buteo rufinus), Honey Buzzard (Pernis
apivorus), Lesser Kestrel (Falco naumanni), Rock Thrush
(Monticola saxatilis), Blue Rock Thrush (Monticola saxatilis)
and Ortolan Bunting (Emberiza hortulana). Other typical birds
that can see be seen on and around the cliffs are Peregrine (Falco
peregrinus), Crag Martin (Ptyonoprogne rupestris), Red-rumped
Swallow (Hirundo daurica) and Alpine Swift (Tachymarptis
melba).
Day 7: Today’s birdwatching will be
focused in the region west of Madzharovo. We will spend the morning
exploring some of the key sites in the “Studen Kladenets”
Important Bird Area. This region is centred around the “Studen
Kladenets” reservoir, which lies directly east of Kurdzhali along
the valley of the river Arda. The reservoir is flanked in most places
by cliffs, screes and rock outcrops, but the surrounding mountains have
mixed deciduous woods and Mediterranean scrubs, as well as open areas
occupied by cultivations and rough pastures. The “Studen Kladenets”
IBA supports 219 bird species, and is of global importance for Black
Vulture (Aegypius monachus) and Griffon Vulture (Gyps fulvus),
the latter having here its second breeding colony in Bulgaria. It is
also one of the most important areas in the country for Black Stork
(Ciconia nigra), Egyptian Vulture (Neophron percnopterus),
Imperial Eagle (Aquila heliaca), Lesser Kestrel (Falco
naumanni), Stone Curlew (Burhinus oedicnemus), Eagle Owl
(Bubo bubo), Olive-tree Warbler (Hippolais olivetorum),
Subalpine Warbler (Sylvia cantillans), Sardinian Warbler (Sylvia
melanocephala), Masked Shrike (Lanius nubicus), Eastern
Black-eared Wheatear (Oenanthe hispanica), Blue Rock Thrush
(Monticola solitarius), Cirl Bunting (Emberiza cirlus)
and Black-headed Bunting (Emberiza melanocephala). Other interesting
birds we will look out for here are: Chukar (Alectoris chukar),
Black Kite (Milvus migrans), Little Owl (Athene noctua),
Roller (Coracias garrulus) and Syrian Woodpecker (Dendrocopos
syriacus). In the afternoon, as we make our way back towards Madzharovo,
we will explore the “Arda Bridge” Important Bird Area which
lies directly west of town along the valley of the Arda. The region
has a nice mix of habitats including the river itself with a sandy-stony
bed and banks covered with riverine vegetation. In some places, there
are cliffs and rocks and in others, open agricultural areas. There are
also mixed oakwoods, grasslands and Mediterranean scrubs. The “Arda
Bridge” IBA holds 142 bird species, and is of global importance
as a feeding and resting site for Black Vulture (Aegypius monachus)
which regularly occur here in significant numbers. It is also holds
breeding Imperial Eagle (Aquila heliaca), and is one of the
most important sites in the country for Stone Curlew (Burhinus oedicnemus),
Black Stork (Ciconia nigra), Egyptian Vulture (Neophron
percnopterus), Scops Owl (Otus scops) and Blue Rock Thrush
(Monticola solitarius). Other important breeding species here
are Golden Eagle (Aquila chrysaetos), Short-toed Eagle (Circaetus
gallicus), Long-legged Buzzard (Buteo rufinus), Honey
Buzzard (Pernis apivorus), Goshawk (Accipiter gentilis),
Sparrowhawk (Accipiter nisus), Eastern Bonelli’s Warbler
(Phylloscopus bonelli orientalis), Olive-tree Warbler (Hippolais
olivetorum), Subalpine Warbler (Sylvia cantillans), Sardinian
Warbler (Sylvia melanocephala), Barred Warbler (Sylvia
nisoria), Eastern Black-eared Wheatear (Oenanthe hispanica), Masked
Shrike (Lanius nubicus), Rock Nuthatch (Sitta neumayer), Red-backed
Shrike (Lanius collurio), Woodchat Shrike (Lanius senator),
Lesser Grey Shrike (Lanius minor), Woodlark (Lullula arborea),
European Nightjar (Caprimulgus europaeus), Wryneck (Jynx
torquila), Hawfinch (Coccothraustes Coccothraustes), Corn
Bunting (Miliaria calandra), Ortolan Bunting (Emberiza
hortulana), Cirl Bunting (Emberiza cirlus), and Black-headed
Bunting (Emberiza melanocephala). Other interesting birds we
will look out for in this region include: Eleonora’s Falcon (Falco
eleonorae), a species which is often seen hunting in this region
during early summer, and Red-footed Falcon (Falco vespertinus),
European Bee-eater (Merops apiaster), Penduline Tit (Remiz
pendulina), Great Reed Warbler (Acrocephalus arundinaceus)
and Reed Bunting (Emberiza schoeniclus).
Day 8: Leaving Madzharovo, we climb up into the hills above the town where we stop off to visit a unique cromlech or stone circle whose origins are thought to date back to the early Iron Age (sometime between the 8th-6th century BC.). Resuming our journey north-west through the Eastern Rhodope (Rodopi) Mountains, we will then pause briefly at a small reservoir that sometimes harbours birds such as: Great Reed Warbler (Acrocephalus arundinaceus), Olivaceous Warbler (Hippolais pallida), Little Bittern (Ixobrichus minutus), Night Heron (Nycticorax nycticorax), Little Grebe (Tachybaptus ruficollis), Kingfisher (Alcedo atthis), Golden Oriole (Oriolus oriolus) and Lesser Spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos minor). Finally we say goodbye to the Eastern Rhodope (Rodopi) Mountains and emerge onto the edge of Thracian Plain, which we then follow west towards Plovdiv. However, before reaching the city we turn back towards the mountains for a final night on the northern slopes of the Rhodope (Rodopi) Mountains at the Gornovodenski Monastery. This was a medieval foundation which has now been converted to an atmospheric hotel. There are usually a couple of pairs of Pallid Swift (Apus pallidus) nesting under the eaves of the monastery roof, and the surrounding woods hold species such as Tawny Owl (Strix aluco), Short-toed Treecreeper (Certhia brachydactyla), Middle Spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos medius), Black Woodpecker (Dryocopus martius) and Hoopoe (Upupa epops).
Day 9: Return to the Bulgarian capital Sofia for sightseeing and the end of the tour.