EXPLORE BULGARIA
EASTERN RHODOPE (RODOPI) RAMBLES
Holiday Itinerary
Day 1: From the Bulgarian capital Sofia, we transfer east, first through the Sredna Gora Mountains and Thracian Plain, before driving up into the heart of Rhodope’s rugged Gradishte massif, where we will be based for the next three nights in a tiny remote hamlet. Our accommodation is a complex of beautifully restored stone cottages offering breath-taking mountain views.
Day 2: We begin today’s circular walk by making our way to Belintash, a unique rock sanctuary which is believed to have served as an ancient astronomical observatory for the region’s Thracian tribes. The summit of the rock outcrop, reached by ascending a metal ladder, has been carved with a curious collection of cisterns, circles and grooves, some of which are said to represent a map of stars. Descending from the rocks, we thread our way steeply down through a couple of tiny hamlets into the valley of the Sushitsa river. This we follow on downstream, before climbing back to our base for a second night.
Day 3: Today we will enjoy a wonderful walk which first leads us through the heart of the “Chervenata Stena” Biosphere Reserve, a region renowned for its rare flora and fauna. Steadily the path starts to descend, and eventually we find ourselves dropping down through ancient forests into a narrow rocky gorge where we will need the help of a couple of metal ladders to negotiate two small cascades. Finally, having visited some tiny chapels hidden away in the rocks and forest, we make our way down to the Bachkovo Monastery, one of the largest and most beautiful monasteries in Bulgaria. Having looked round the monastery, our bus will then drive us back to our base for a third night.
Day 4: Leaving the Gradishte massif, we set off south-east, and having crossed the Kitka Pass, enter the Eastern Rhodope Mountains. We soon break off from the main road to follow a rough and winding country lane that leads us through a stunningly beautiful landscape of rugged volcanic outcrops. It is a wild region, studded here and there by tiny remote hamlets that lie seemingly forgotten by time and the modern world. The route is extremely photogenic, and we will make regular pauses to enable pictures to be taken and the landscape to be appreciated. Eventually we drop down into the Borovitsa Valley, a region that is rich in birdlife. Here we will set off on foot to search out a unique recently discovered cave known as “The Rock Womb”. This remarkable cleft in a rock leads into a cave chamber resembling a womb. It is believed to have been an important sacred site for the Thracians and was no doubt connected with an even earlier Mother-Goddess cult. It takes about an hour’s steep climb on a rough and rocky path to reach the rock massif, and then an exciting scramble up into the cave itself. Finally, resuming our journey, we make our way on through the regional centre of Kurdzhali to the small sleepy town of Momchilgrad, where we will spend the next two nights in a hotel located in a hillside park above the town.
Day 5: Leaving Momchilgrad, we make our way east into the Krumovitsa Valley which we follow north towards its confluence with the river Arda and the eastern end of the “Studen Kladenets” reservoir. This whole region is internationally recognized for its exceptionally rich biodiversity, being one of the most important places in Europe for butterflies, reptiles and birds of prey. We will spend much of the day here enjoying nature walks and birdwatching in what is a key feeding area for rare birds such Imperial Eagle, Egyptian Vulture, Griffon Vulture and Black Vulture. During the day we will also have the chance to explore the fascinating rock complex of Pchelen Kamuk with its unique rock niches and tombs. Finally, we make our way down to Madzharovo, a small former mining town which is now internationally renowned as one of the top wildlife-watching centres in Europe. Here we will stay for the next two nights as guests of NICCER (The Nature Information and Conservation Centre of the Eastern Rhodope).
Day 6: We spend today walking in the mountains directly above Madzharovo, exploring the imposing rock massif known as Momina Skala. This mountain has been declared a protected site on account of its rich flora and fauna. Some 600 species of plants have been recorded on Momina Skala. As well as being an extremely important site for birds of prey, these rocks hold many other secrets including a Thracian tomb and fortress from which there is an outstanding panorama over the surrounding region.
Day 7: Leaving Madzharovo, we first explore a unique “cromlech” or circle of standing stones. Archaeological investigations show that the site was first developed in the second phase of the Early Iron Age (8-6 centuries BC). We then drive on to Perperikon, where we will enjoy some fascinating rambles around an amazing rock sanctuary which is currently undergoing some of the most important archaeological excavations on the Balkan Peninsula. This mighty rock settlement comprises an acropolis, temples, fortress and dwellings. Its origins have been shown to date back 8000 years to the late Neolithic Age, after which it was then inhabited by a succession of Thracians, Romans, Goths, Byzantines and Bulgarians. Most intriguing of all is the growing archaeological evidence that this site may actually have been the renowned sanctuary of Dionysius which was frequently mentioned by ancient authors, but which has so far has eluded discovery by archaeologists. According to the ancient texts, the temple of Dionysius was visited by Alexander the Great, who was informed by its oracle that he would go on to rule the world. Later, Gaius Octavius came to this temple to ask the fate of his unborn baby, and was told it would achieve great things; indeed the baby grew up to become the Emperor Octavian Augustus. Resuming our journey north, we make our way via Kamennite Gubi (The Stone Mushrooms), an amazing collection of naturally weathered toadstool-shaped rocks, before returning to Asenovgrad for our final night.
Day 8: Leaving Asenovgrad and the Rhodope (Rodopi) Mountains behind, we make our way west back across the Thracian Plain to Sofia for the end of the tour.