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BIRDWATCHING IN BULGARIA
RAPTORS OF THE RHODOPE (RODOPI) MOUNTAINS

Holiday Itinerary

Day 1: Leaving Sofia, we head south-west, passing through the Sredna Gora Mountains before emerging onto the Thracian Plain. Finally, as we approach Plovdiv, we turn south towards the Rhodope (Rodopi) Mountains and begin a winding and sometimes rough drive onto the Dobrostan massif, where we will spend the next two nights in a tiny remote mountain hamlet.

Day 2: We will spend today exploring some of the varied habitats within the “Dobrostan” Important Bird Area, a complex labyrinth of ridges and gorges. Much of the region is occupied by broadleaved, coniferous and mixed forests, but there are also many open areas of meadows and pastures. However, perhaps the most striking features of the region are its cliffs and rock outcrops, including Belintash which is the site of a fascinating ancient sanctuary to the god Sabazius and which is thought to have been carved out of the rocks some 7000 years ago. The “Dobrostan” IBA itself supports 149 species of bird, and is one of the most important sites in the country for species such as: Black Stork (Ciconia nigra), Egyptian Vulture (Neophron percnopterus), Golden Eagle (Aquila chrysaetos), Imperial Eagle (Aquila heliaca), Honey Buzzard (Pernis apivorus), Long-legged Buzzard (Buteo rufinus), Booted Eagle (Hieraaetus pennatus), Short-toed Eagle (Circaetus gallicus), Peregrine Falcon (Falco peregrinus), Lesser Kestrel (Falco naumanni), Common Kestrel (Falco tinnunculus), Hazel Grouse (Bonasa bonasia), Capercallie (Tetrao urogallus), Scops Owl (Otus scops), Eagle Owl (Bubo bubo), European Nightjar (Caprimulgus europaeus), White-backed Woodpecker (Dendrocopos leucotos), Black Woodpecker (Dryocopus martius), Syrian Woodpecker (Dendrocopos syriacus), Middle Spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos medius), Grey-headed Woodpecker (Picus canus), Woodlark (Lullula arborea), Red-backed Shrike (Lanius collurio) and Cirl Bunting (Emberiza cirlus). Other interesting species include: Black-headed Bunting (Emberiza melanocephala), Rock Nuthatch (Sitta neumayer), Rock Partridge (Alectoris graeca), Eastern Black-eared Wheatear (Oenanthe hispanica) and Subalpine Warbler (Sylvia cantillans).

Day 3: We begin the day with a brief stop at the northern foot of the Rhodope (Rodopi) Mountains, checking for birds on and around some scrubby agricultural land and a micro-reservoir. Here is a colony of European Souslik (Spermophilus citellus), a small ground-squirrel which is the favoured prey for Imperial Eagle (Aquila heliaca), which can therefore sometimes be seen hunting in the region. The abandoned holes of these animals are also used as nesting sites by Isabelline Wheater (Oenanthe isabellina). Other typical birds that can be seen in the region include: Little Ringed Plover (Charadrius dubius), Hoopoe (Upupa epops), Roller (Coracias garrulus), Golden Oriole (Oriolus oriolus), Tawny Pipit (Anthus campestris), Barred Warbler (Sylvia nisoria) and Corn Bunting (Miliaria calandra). Resuming, we then make our way south-east, watching the landscape become ever wilder as we climb onto the Chukata massif and so enter the Eastern Rhodope (Rodopi) Mountains. If the roads are passable we will try and reach the town of Kurdzhali by using a rough and winding minor road that drops down into the dramatic Borovitsa valley. The river here is flanked by rugged rock outcrops which are not only studded with numerous caves, but also with a large number of ancient megalithic rock tombs and niches, some of which today provide suitable nesting places for a variety of birds of prey. Finally, having reached Kurdzhali, we then press on south along the valley of Vurbitsa to the town of Momchilgrad where we will spend the night.

Day 4: We start the day by visiting a strange rock tomb near the village of Tatul, which according to tradition was also a shrine to Orpheus, and which is currently the centre of much archaeological research and debate. From here we make our way east to explore the “Krumovitsa” Important Bird Area, in particular focusing on the valley of the river Krumovitsa. In this region, the valley is wide and the river often very shallow exposing its sandy-stony bed. In some places the riverbanks are steep and rocky, but in other places they are lined with typical riverine trees and shrubs. The region is also studded with some small patches of cultivations. The “Krumovitsa” IBA supports 136 species of bird, and is one of the most important sites in the country for Black Stork (Ciconia nigra), Egyptian Vulture (Neophron percnopterus) and Booted Eagle (Hieraaetus pennatus). Other interesting birds we will be looking out for here include: Short-toed Eagle (Circaetus gallicus), Hobby (Falco subbuteo), Lesser Kestrel (Falco naumanni), Rock Nuthatch (Sitta neumayer), Eastern Black-eared Wheatear (Oenanthe hispanica), Olivaceous Warbler (Hippolais pallida), Olive-tree Warbler (Hippolais olivetorum), Subalpine Warbler (Sylvia cantillans), Sardinian Warbler (Sylvia melanocephala), Eastern Orphean Warbler (Sylvia hortensis), Barred Warbler (Sylvia nisoria), Sombre Tit (Parus lugubris), Spanish Sparrow (Passer hispaniolensis), Black-headed Bunting (Emberiza melanocephala), Lesser Grey Shrike (Lanius minor), Woodchat Shrike (Lanius senator) and if we are lucky Masked Shrike (Lanius nubicus), Great Spotted Cuckoo (Clamator glandarius) and Stone Curlew (Burchinus oedicnemus). This is also a prime feeding and resting area for Black Vulture (Aegypius monachus), and we will keep our eyes open for them as we make our way to the small town of Ivailovgrad where we will be based for the next two nights.

Day 5: Today the focus of our explorations will be the remote and isolated border-region south-west of Ivailovgrad, in particular the “Byala Reka” Important Bird Area. This region is located around the beautiful valley of the Byala Reka, a sparkling river which meanders its way over a stony-sandy riverbed flanked by rock outcrops and riverine shrubs. Because of the region’s remoteness and sparse population, not only is the river itself unpolluted, but the surrounding forests are fairly well-preserved. These are dominated by oakwoods as well as typical Mediterranean-type shrub formations. In the vicinity of settlements, one can find some small-scale cultivations. The “Byala Reka” IBA supports 167 species of bird species and is of global importance as a permanent roosting and feeding site for Black Vulture (Aegypius monachus). It is also one of the most important sites in the country for Black Stork (Ciconia nigra), Honey Buzzard (Pernis apivorus), Booted Eagle (Hieraaetus pennatus), Short-toed Eagle (Circaetus gallicus), Levant Sparrowhawk (Accipiter brevipes), European Nightjar (Caprimulgus europaeus), Olive-tree Warbler (Hippolais olivetorum), Subalpine Warbler (Sylvia cantillans), Sardinian Warbler (Sylvia melanocephala), Masked Shrike (Lanius nubicus), Eastern Black-eared Wheatear (Oenanthe hispanica), Woodlark (Lullula arborea) and Black-headed Bunting (Emberiza melanocephala).

Day 6: Setting off from Ivailovgrad, we make our way north-west through the “Ivailovgrad Reservoir” Important Bird Area. This site covers almost the entire water body of the Ivailovgrad reservoir and the surrounding mountain slopes. Part of the region is covered by oakwoods, whilst the remainder has scrub and rough pastures, interspersed with patches of cultivation. There are also some cliffs and rock outcrops. The “Ivailovgrad Reservoir” IBA supports 163 bird species, and is one of the most important places in the country for White-tailed Eagle (Haliaeetus albicilla), Osprey (Pandion haliaetus) and Booted Eagle (Hieraaetus pennatus). It also holds significant breeding populations of Black Stork (Ciconia nigra) and Honey Buzzard (Pernis apivorus). Other important breeding birds include Masked Shrike (Lanius nubicus) and Olive-tree Warbler (Hippolais olivetorum). Having skirted the “Ivailovgrad” reservoir, we then reach the small former mining town of Madzharovo where we will be based for the next two nights. Since the mines closed down, the town has become a magnet for naturalists from around the world, and is the location of NICCER (Nature Information and Conservation Centre for the Eastern Rhodope), the main hub of conservation efforts in the Eastern Rhodope (Rodopi) Mountains. The town is ringed to the north and east by the “Madzharovo” Important Bird Area, and we will spend the afternoon birdwatching in this region. The key habitats around Madzharovo are the rugged rock outcrops, screes and cliffs, some of which rise up to 150m high above the valley of the river Arda. However, there are also mixed oakwoods and Mediterranean scrubs, as well as some agricultural areas, and of course the river itself, which has a sandy-stony bed and riverine vegetation along its banks. The “Madzharovo” IBA supports 174 species of bird, and is of global significance for Eastern Black-eared Wheatear (Oenanthe hispanica), Olive-tree Warbler (Hippolais olivetorum), Subalpine Warbler (Sylvia cantillans), Sardinian Warbler (Sylvia melanocephala), Rock Nuthatch (Sitta neumayer) and Black-headed Bunting (Emberiza melanocephala). However, its real claim to fame is one of the two breeding colonies of Griffon Vultures (Gyps fulvus) in Bulgaria. It is also one of the most important breeding areas in the country for Black Stork (Ciconia nigra), Egyptian Vulture (Neophron percnopterus), Black Kite (Milvus migrans), Long-legged Buzzard (Buteo rufinus), Honey Buzzard (Pernis apivorus), Lesser Kestrel (Falco naumanni), Rock Thrush (Monticola saxatilis), Blue Rock Thrush (Monticola saxatilis) and Ortolan Bunting (Emberiza hortulana). Other typical birds that can see be seen on and around the cliffs are Peregrine (Falco peregrinus), Crag Martin (Ptyonoprogne rupestris), Red-rumped Swallow (Hirundo daurica) and Alpine Swift (Tachymarptis melba).

Day 7: Today’s birdwatching will be focused in the region west of Madzharovo. We will spend the morning exploring some of the key sites in the “Studen Kladenets” Important Bird Area. This region is centred around the “Studen Kladenets” reservoir, which lies directly east of Kurdzhali along the valley of the river Arda. The reservoir is flanked in most places by cliffs, screes and rock outcrops, but the surrounding mountains have mixed deciduous woods and Mediterranean scrubs, as well as open areas occupied by cultivations and rough pastures. The “Studen Kladenets” IBA supports 219 bird species, and is of global importance for Black Vulture (Aegypius monachus) and Griffon Vulture (Gyps fulvus), the latter having here its second breeding colony in Bulgaria. It is also one of the most important areas in the country for Black Stork (Ciconia nigra), Egyptian Vulture (Neophron percnopterus), Imperial Eagle (Aquila heliaca), Lesser Kestrel (Falco naumanni), Stone Curlew (Burhinus oedicnemus), Eagle Owl (Bubo bubo), Olive-tree Warbler (Hippolais olivetorum), Subalpine Warbler (Sylvia cantillans), Sardinian Warbler (Sylvia melanocephala), Masked Shrike (Lanius nubicus), Eastern Black-eared Wheatear (Oenanthe hispanica), Blue Rock Thrush (Monticola solitarius), Cirl Bunting (Emberiza cirlus) and Black-headed Bunting (Emberiza melanocephala). Other interesting birds we will look out for here are: Chukar (Alectoris chukar), Black Kite (Milvus migrans), Little Owl (Athene noctua), Roller (Coracias garrulus) and Syrian Woodpecker (Dendrocopos syriacus). In the afternoon, as we make our way back towards Madzharovo, we will explore the “Arda Bridge” Important Bird Area which lies directly west of town along the valley of the Arda. The region has a nice mix of habitats including the river itself with a sandy-stony bed and banks covered with riverine vegetation. In some places, there are cliffs and rocks and in others, open agricultural areas. There are also mixed oakwoods, grasslands and Mediterranean scrubs. The “Arda Bridge” IBA holds 142 bird species, and is of global importance as a feeding and resting site for Black Vulture (Aegypius monachus) which regularly occur here in significant numbers. It is also holds breeding Imperial Eagle (Aquila heliaca), and is one of the most important sites in the country for Stone Curlew (Burhinus oedicnemus), Black Stork (Ciconia nigra), Egyptian Vulture (Neophron percnopterus), Scops Owl (Otus scops) and Blue Rock Thrush (Monticola solitarius). Other important breeding species here are Golden Eagle (Aquila chrysaetos), Short-toed Eagle (Circaetus gallicus), Long-legged Buzzard (Buteo rufinus), Honey Buzzard (Pernis apivorus), Goshawk (Accipiter gentilis), Sparrowhawk (Accipiter nisus), Eastern Bonelli’s Warbler (Phylloscopus bonelli orientalis), Olive-tree Warbler (Hippolais olivetorum), Subalpine Warbler (Sylvia cantillans), Sardinian Warbler (Sylvia melanocephala), Barred Warbler (Sylvia nisoria), Eastern Black-eared Wheatear (Oenanthe hispanica), Masked Shrike (Lanius nubicus), Rock Nuthatch (Sitta neumayer), Red-backed Shrike (Lanius collurio), Woodchat Shrike (Lanius senator), Lesser Grey Shrike (Lanius minor), Woodlark (Lullula arborea), European Nightjar (Caprimulgus europaeus), Wryneck (Jynx torquila), Hawfinch (Coccothraustes Coccothraustes), Corn Bunting (Miliaria calandra), Ortolan Bunting (Emberiza hortulana), Cirl Bunting (Emberiza cirlus), and Black-headed Bunting (Emberiza melanocephala). Other interesting birds we will look out for in this region include: Eleonora’s Falcon (Falco eleonorae), a species which is often seen hunting in this region during early summer, and Red-footed Falcon (Falco vespertinus), European Bee-eater (Merops apiaster), Penduline Tit (Remiz pendulina), Great Reed Warbler (Acrocephalus arundinaceus) and Reed Bunting (Emberiza schoeniclus).

Day 8: Leaving Madzharovo, we climb up into the hills above the town where we stop off to visit a unique cromlech or stone circle whose origins are thought to date back to the early Iron Age (sometime between the 8th-6th century BC.). Resuming our journey north-west through the Eastern Rhodope (Rodopi) Mountains, we will then pause briefly at a small reservoir that sometimes harbours birds such as: Great Reed Warbler (Acrocephalus arundinaceus), Olivaceous Warbler (Hippolais pallida), Little Bittern (Ixobrichus minutus), Night Heron (Nycticorax nycticorax), Little Grebe (Tachybaptus ruficollis), Kingfisher (Alcedo atthis), Golden Oriole (Oriolus oriolus) and Lesser Spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos minor). Finally we say goodbye to the Eastern Rhodope (Rodopi) Mountains and emerge onto the edge of Thracian Plain, which we then follow west towards Plovdiv. However, before reaching the city we turn back towards the mountains for a final night on the northern slopes of the Rhodope (Rodopi) Mountains at the Gornovodenski Monastery. This was a medieval foundation which has now been converted to an atmospheric hotel. There are usually a couple of pairs of Pallid Swift (Apus pallidus) nesting under the eaves of the monastery roof, and the surrounding woods hold species such as Tawny Owl (Strix aluco), Short-toed Treecreeper (Certhia brachydactyla), Middle Spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos medius), Black Woodpecker (Dryocopus martius) and Hoopoe (Upupa epops).

Day 9: Return to the Bulgarian capital Sofia for sightseeing and the end of the tour.

Balkan Trek is at the forefront of responsible tourism in Bulgaria, and recognised as one of Bulgaria's leading mountain adventure and eco-tourism operators. We are specialists in small group walking holidays, trekking holidays, snowshoeing treks, cultural tours, monastery tours, village holidays, wildlife holidays, natural history trips, birdwatching holidays, botanic tours and flower photography holidays. We operate trips in Bulgaria's Rhodope (Rodopi) Mountains, Rila Mountains, Pirin Mountains, Stara Planina (Balkan Mountains), Strandzha Mountains, Sredna Gora Mountains, Vitosha Mountains, as well as at Bulgaria's Black Sea coast.