EXPLORE BULGARIA
EASTERN RHODOPE (RODOPI) RAMBLES
Holiday Itinerary
Day 1: From the Bulgarian capital Sofia, we transfer east through the Sredna Gora Mountains and then across the Thracian Plain to Asenovgrad, a small town nestled in at the foot of the Rhodope (Rodopi) Mountains. Our accommodation for the next three nights is in a beautifully restored 19th century town house.
Day 2: We start the day with a short drive to the nearby Gornovodenski Monastery which lies on the northern flank of the Rhodope (Rodopi) Mountains just above Asenovgrad. Although no longer a working monastery, it is a beautiful and atmospheric place, and the church shelters some wonderful frescoes. Usually, there are a pair or two of Pallid Swift (Apus pallidus) nesting under the eaves of the monastery, whilst the surrounding forests hold Middle Spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos medius) and Hoopoe (Upupa epops). From the Gornovodenski Monastery, we then make our way to Asenova Krepost, the ruins of an ancient fortress which lie perched on the rocks directly above the Chepelarska Gorge. Within the ruins is a beautiful church, and the limestone rocks harbour an interesting flora and also provide a refuge to several species of reptile. From there we continue our rambles down into the Chepelarska Gorge itself, before returning to Asenovgrad along a panoramic path that contours along the rocks high above the river. As well as offering great views, the trail also has a rich flora.
Day 3: A winding drive takes us high up into the Rhodope (Rodopi) Mountains’ Dobrostan massif. Here we will enjoy some wonderful rambles which first lead us through the heart of the “Chervenata Stena” Biosphere Reserve, a region renowned for its rare flora and fauna. Within the reserve have ben recorded more than 645 species of plants, including rare species such as Pulsatilla halleri, Linum thracicum, Lathraea rhodopea and Haberlea rhodopensis, and numerous species of orchid. The reserve is also interesting for birdwatchers with birds of prey such as Golden Eagle (Aquila chrysaetos), Peregrine (Falco peregrinus), Long-legged Buzzard (Buteo rufinus) and Goshawk (Accipiter gentilis). Steadily the path starts to descend, and eventually we find ourselves dropping down through ancient forests into a narrow rocky gorge where we will need the help of a couple of metal ladders to negotiate two small cascades. Finally, having passed a couple of tiny chapels hidden away in the rocks and forest, our day's Rhodope (Rodopi) rambles finish at the Bachkovo Monastery, one of the largest and most beautiful monasteries in Bulgaria. Having looked round the monastery, our bus will then drive us the short distance back to our hotel in Asenovgrad.
Day 4: Leaving Asenovgrad, we set off south-east, and having crossed the Kitka Pass, enter the Eastern Rhodope (Rodopi) Mountains. We soon break off from the main road to explore a rough and winding country lane that leads us through a stunningly beautiful landscape of rugged volcanic outcrops. It is a wild region, studded here and there by tiny remote hamlets that lie seemingly forgotten by time and the modern world. The route is extremely photogenic, and we will make regular pauses to enable pictures to be taken and the landscape to be appreciated. Eventually we drop down into the Borovitsa Valley, a region that is rich in birdlife including Black Stork (Ciconia nigra), Short-toed Eagle (Circaetus gallicus), European Bee-eater (Merops apiaster) and, if we a re lucky, Rose-coloured Starling (Sturnus roseus). Here we will set off on foot to explore a unique recently discovered cave known as “The Rock Womb”. This remarkable cleft in a rock leads into a cave chamber resembling a womb. It is believed to have been an important sacred site for the Thracians and was no doubt connected with an even earlier Mother-Goddess cult. It takes about an hour’s steep climb on a rough and rocky path to reach the rock massif, and then an exciting scramble up into the cave itself with the aid of a makeshift wooden ladder and the trunk of a tree! Finally, resuming our journey, we make our way on through the regional centre of Kurdzhali to the small sleepy town of Momchilgrad, where we will spend the next two nights in a hotel located in a hillside park above the town.
Day 5: During the first part of today we will explore holy mountain of Dambuluk (911m). This peak, once the site of an ancient sanctuary to Asclepius, the God of Healing, later became a sacred place for the Aliani, followers of one of the Sufi orders that established themselves in the Balkans during the Middle Ages. Today, on the summit one finds the Türbe (mausoleum) of a Muslim holy man which is a place of pilgrimage for Bulgaria’s Aliani. Later in the day, we explore the rock sanctuary at Tatul, just a short drive east from Momchilgrad. This is currently the focus of major archaeological investigations. It is thought to date from around the 2nd millennium BC, and is believed by some to have been the tomb of Orpheus.
Day 6: Leaving Momchilgrad, we make our way east towards the valley of the Krumovitsa, one of the major rivers in the Eastern Rhodope (Rodopi) Mountains. Today will explore the remote and rugged region that lies to its east and in particular the wild valley of one of its main tributaries the Dushan Dere. The rough rocky landscape is studded with tiny hauntingly beautiful and often abandoned hamlets. Today the main inhabitants of the region are a rich variety of birds and reptiles. Finally, returning to our bus, we make our way to Madzharovo, a small former mining town which is now internationally renowned as one of the top wildlife-watching centres in Europe. Here we will stay for the next two nights as guests of NICCER (The Nature Information and Conservation Centre of the Eastern Rhodope). The rock outcrops above the information centre provide an ideal vantage point from which to observe the breeding sites of Griffon Vulture (Gyps fulvus), Egyptian Vulture (Neophron percnopterus), Peregrine (Falco peregrinus) and Black Stork (Ciconia nigra).
Day 7: Today we enjoy a series of rambles in the Rhodope (Rodopi) Mountains directly above Madzharovo, as we set out to explore the imposing rock massif known as Momina Skala. This mountain has been declared a protected site on account of its rich flora and fauna. Some 600 species of plants have been recorded on Momina Skala including such interesting species as Orchis papilionacea, Fritilaria pontica, Potentilla regis-borissii, Armeria rumelica and Carduus thracicus. The fauna of this site is equally as rich with birds of prey such as Egyptian Vulture (Neophron percnopterus), Golden Eagle (Aquila chrysaetos), Short-toed Eagle (Circaetus gallicus) and Honey Buzzard (Pernis apivorus). Other birds include Blue Rock Thrush (Monticola solitarius), Rock Thrush (Monticola saxatilis), Rock Nuthatch (Sitta neumayer), Black-eared Wheatear (Oenanthe hispanica), Woodchat Shrike (Lanius senator), Chukar (Alectoris chukar), Subalpine Warbler (Sylvia cantillans) and (Sylvia melanocephalus). On Momina Skala one can also find interesting reptiles such as Hermann's Tortoise (Testudo hermanni), Spur-thighed Tortoise (Testudo graeca), European Glass Lizard (Pseudopus apodus), Large Whip Snake (Dolichophis caspius) and Common Wall Lizard (Podarcis muralis). These rocks hold many other secrets including a Thracian tomb and fortress from which there is an outstanding panorama over the surrounding region.
Day 8: Leaving Madzharovo, we first explore a unique “cromlech” or circle of standing stones. Archaeological investigations show that the site was first developed in the second phase of the Early Iron Age (8-6 centuries BC). We then drive on to Perperikon, where we will enjoy some fascinating rambles around an amazing rock sanctuary which is currently undergoing some of the most important archaeological excavations on the Balkan Peninsula. This mighty rock settlement comprises an acropolis, temples, fortress and dwellings. Its origins have been shown to date back 8000 years to the late Neolithic Age, after which it was then inhabited by a succession of Thracians, Romans, Goths, Byzantines and Bulgarians. Most intriguing of all is the growing archaeological evidence that this site may actually have been the renowned sanctuary of Dionysius which was frequently mentioned by ancient authors, but which has so far has eluded discovery by archaeologists. According to the ancient texts, the temple of Dionysius was visited by Alexander the Great, who was informed by its oracle that he would go on to rule the world. Later, Gaius Octavius came to this temple to ask the fate of his unborn baby, and was told it would achieve great things; indeed the baby grew up to become the Emperor Octavian Augustus. Resuming our journey north, we make our way via Kamennite Gubi (The Stone Mushrooms), an amazing collection of naturally weathered toadstool-shaped rocks, before returning to Asenovgrad for our final night.
Day 9: Leaving Asenovgrad and the Rhodope (Rodopi) Mountains behind, we make our way west back across the Thracian Plain to Sofia for the end of the tour.